Monday, July 6, 2009
And He Said Let There Be Wind (and Waves)
I stuck my head out the tent to see the point breaking beautifully and anticipated a day down at the Chilli Bowl - little did I know what was really in store. By mid morning it was already reasonably windy at PSC. And I headed out on a 4.2 pleasantly surprised by the larger sets over head high. After a short session I came in to tape up my feet which have been taking great pleasure in meeting with random sharp rocks before going straight back out. Soon after that I found my self totally stacked on my 4.2, someone had flicked a switch and it was windy. I held on for as long as possible then came in for lunch and to rig down.
Post lunch I look out and realise it's got even windier. It reminded me of Bigbury about 3 years ago, but the waves were still lining up and getting bigger.
I guess I needed a 2.9 but the smallest I have here is 3.6 so I rigged it up and fought my way down the stones onto the beach. It's that moment when you look out and know it's going to be one long fight but a bloody good fun one. The white water was ferrociously being blown off the tops of the waves distorting the view of the wave behind. It was so much fun, and I was loving life - no one else was out. I was struggling to be in control and keep my board on the water, and certainly couldn't top turn anymore which meant just smacking it and going up.
Then I caught a meaty set wave and managed to get a couple of more controlled turns in; as I went for the 3rd turn I realised the section was going to close out as I headed up it...either I pussied out and turn away, or I just hit it and try to clear the water. I went for the latter, apart from I didn't hit it straight on, so as I got to the lip it had already started to curl down taking my far rail with it. As soon as I felt I was going over the falls I was thinking 'gotta get my feet out in the next milli second', but it happened quicker than that and my right foot didn't make it. It felt like I had snapped my knee in two but these things always feel worse than they are. The hardest part is getting yourself back to the beach when it hurts that bad.
So needless to say that put an end to Big Sunday for me; the rest involved lots of ice and elevation, it's not swollen so I don't think it's too serious but I'm not ruling out going back on the water tomorrow.
For now I thank KT for the comfort of the Lounge at Solo Sports and the endless entertainment of the waves infront of me.